This is it, I thought. This is how I will die. This is the week. Not a bomb, but a plane crash in Costa Rica.
The pilot turned back to us--two of the plane's three passengers--and gave us a thumbs up.
And much to the credit of those pilots, we didn't end up crashing into some lush mountaintop or sinking into a stingray-laden bay. We landed safely at the Golfito airport and began the next leg of our trek to the Yoga Farm in Punta Banco, Costa Rica.
It felt wrong to be traveling. To be having fun. We had left San Jose that Friday morning with the news that Boston was on lock-down. Something was happening, something with gunfire and grenades, something with the Marathon bombing suspects. Something sounding like a bad action movie. But we didn't know what or if our loved ones were safe. We were entering a week without cellphones, Internet, or TV. I had naively envisioned that after Marathon Monday's tragedy, that was it. As horrible as it was, there would be no more bombs, no more lives lost. Somehow I had forgotten that those responsible were still out there.
***
Our Spanish-only speaking cab driver fought his cuatro-por-cuatro vehicle up a nearly-vertical hill, and my travel buddy and I once again exchanged are we going to make it glances. He let us out on the narrow dirt path next to a small hand-painted "Yoga Farm" sign. Lizards zig zagged across our path, and with our giant backpacks, we wandered into the jungle. The small dirt path we chose led to a long wooden table under a thatched roof--the kitchen that would be that place of all of our meals, many rounds of Bananagrams and great laughs with new friends.
"Hello! Are you new? Put down your bags. Lunch is ready," someone told us. Shell shocked and starving, we helped ourselves to the huge bowls of fresh salad topped with starfruit, rice and beans garnished with cilantro and a pile of deep purple beets. Where was the check-in desk? Who was running this place? Where was our room? Volunteers popped in and someone showed where we were to sleep and filled us in on how the place was run. Watch out for the poisonous snakes. The outdoor shower has the best water pressure. Composting toilets need mulch after you're done and yoga is at 6:30 a.m.
"But how will we wake up in time without an alarm?" I asked. I'm the type who sets two alarms just in case.
Oh, you'll wake up, we were promised.
Wake up we did--to the monstrous grunting of the howler monkeys and the cacophony of bird and animal morning song. That first yoga class was challenging in a way I didn't expect. Although we laid out our mats on the yoga deck (pictured above) with the gentle ocean breeze filtering over the trees and the relaxing sounds of the jungle backing our class, I couldn't stop shaking. Even just sitting, it felt as if my body was trying to let go of this deep tension I held tightly to, but I was resisting. I fought the onset of tears.
When fellow travelers heard we were from Boston, they naturally asked about the bombing and our experience. I had trouble making eye contact during those initial conversations. I wanted to be away from it. To cut myself off. I was still jittery, but by our second day there, we were told if we needed to use the Internet, we could buy a smoothie from a local family at the bottom of the hill and hang out in their yard to log on via our smart phones. We wandered into stranger's backyards until we found them, more welcoming than anyone you'd imagine in the U.S. We were happy to see that the city was no longer on lockdown. One suspect was dead and the other was caught. Finally, I felt, I could breathe.
After that, relaxing was easy. It was simple, in fact. Everything was. The meals were healthy vegetarian dishes made largely from fruit and vegetables grown on the property. Days consisted of yoga, reading in hammocks, and swimming at the beach. Without our ferocious need to connect electronically, we forged friendships with the strangers sleeping around us and shared the types of conversations about things like improving the earth that you can only have with the idealistic in remote corners of the world. By the end of the week, the aching of tension in my shoulders and back was replaced with a slight tan. I was smiling. Couldn't stop, in fact.Sometimes you are just lucky enough to end up with one of those trips that gives you something to bring home--not a bag full of souvenir shirts neither you nor your loved ones will ever wear--but something I wanted to cultivate in my own life. Something like simplicity. Something that could be garnered from clean food, simple living, sweating, being outdoors, working with your hands, shutting off technology, doing yoga, exploring, being dirty, meeting new people, not bothering with makeup or nice clothes. How good it felt to pare down and yet to have all of this.







